A DAY IN CHAMPAGNE

In September 2021, Claire, Bea and Caitlin headed across the Channel for a field trip focused on all things French. A visit to Champagne was the closest to actual fields the trip managed to get…

Having never been to the region before, but all three being regulars to Paris, Champagne’s convenience from the capital was a revelation.

REIMS & THE REGION

Caitlin:
I wasn’t sure what to expect of Reims. Part of me thought it could be a tacky Champagne Disney Land, the other thought that the French are too classy for that. Thankfully it was the latter.

The town in itself is truly beautiful, and quite understated, but as you make your way towards Champagne row it really is breathtaking, like something from a fairy tale (but not a Disney one).

Claire:
Just one comfortable and increasingly pretty train journey, and you’re right in the heart of Reims. Maybe naively, I didn’t expect quite the level of fairytale realness that greeted us. Think broad boulevards, bunting-lined streets and pretty fountains, leafy squares overlooked by shuttered windows. Caitlin might be adamant it’s nothing like a Disney fairytale, but all my long-held Beauty and the Beast dreams were starting to come true. All I needed now was a horse and cart to travel between the Champagne houses in…

Bea:
Champagne was totally not what I expected. A lot more down to earth and relaxed. I was expecting the area to have the air of luxury of a department store or 5* hotel but it felt like a normal french city – that happened to have a bit more Champagne. It’s definitely an area that you need to spend a long time in and plan out your trip in detail. Getting between the houses needs to be carefully timed and planned, as there’s no official transport or schedule for visitors to join.

Claire:
Our visit was, of course, strictly for research purposes. So our first stop was one of the many pavement cafés for an early and quintessentially French lunch.

I’m just about used to the amazing value for money at French eateries and off licenses when it comes to steaks, cheese, and wine. But still, nothing prepared me for the amazing selection of Champagnes Reims’ cafe had to offer for extremely affordable prices.

VRANKEN POMMERY

Caitlin:
We headed off on the Pommery tour and I wasn’t really ready for what came next. I’ve read about champagne caves, done virtual tours, even pitched an event all about them… However, it is something everyone must experience in the flesh.

Claire:
Vranken Pommery is arguably one of the prettiest Champagne houses in Reims. From the decadent gates, up the sweeping driveway and into the vast main hall, this place is palpably special. But I agree that nothing above ground comes close to experiencing the Champagne caves themselves.

Bea:
The Pommery experience was fantastic! It felt like there was a careful balance of respect for their history and a need to pull in new audiences. By incorporating art into the tour you attention was pulled into each room, with the curation allowing guests to casually take in the history.

They also allowed for different levels of interaction. Those that wanted to fully delve into the tour could get a guided experience. However those who want to go at their own pace can either take a tour through the app, or experience it through the information available in the caves.

Bea:
Though the space doesn’t have some of the accolades that the LVMH houses can claim, they have celebrated the history they do have in a creative and engaging way.

Caitlin:
Inside the caves, there was a modern art exhibition – sculptures, projections, a house filled with rain – not what we expected to find, but being able to enjoy the art in this setting was a once in a lifetime experience.

Claire:
Little things like seeing the storage the tunnels for different cities (Glasgow and Edinburgh included) are complemented by colossal sculptures telling the story of flavour. Rack upon rack of ancient magnums lead you to full buildings buried deep below ground, raining from the inside out.

Labyrinthine in the very best possible way, Pommery’s caves provide hours of awe-inspiring moments. And that’s very thirsty work, which made us all grateful for a complimentary glass of fizz after the long climb back to the top.

Caitlin:
After what we’d just experienced, it was the finest glass of champagne I’d ever had.

Caitlin:
Walking down hundreds of stairs into the darkness, the first thing that hit us was the cool (ok cold) air and stillness. Complete silence isn’t something we get to experience very often these days, but in the caves of Pommery it was there, and it was the perfect atmosphere to take in the experience.

Claire:
My top piece of advice: the caves are bloody chilly. Despite it being a balmy 28º outside during our visit, it was quickly coats-on time as we descended the hundreds of steps into the belly of Reims. But man, it’s so worth the cold.

I’m not sure what I was expecting, but nothing the internet can show you has a patch on actually being down there. And that’s before we even reached the incredible installations Pommery has commissioned to fill the vast underground spaces.